The adapter that I sell is compatible with all PowerPC (PPC) & Intel (CoreDuo or Core2Duo Macs) that have USB AND one of the following versions of the Mac OS (operating system):

• 9.2.2 (Classic)

• 10.1 (Puma)

• 10.2 (Jaguar)

• 10.3 (Panther)

• 10.4 (Tiger)

• 10.5 (Leopard)

• 10.6 (Snow Leopard)

• All versions of Mac OS X Server

This is inclusive of all versions & point updates/security updates (IE 10.3.1 - 10.3.9)

Below is a complete model list of compatible Macs 1997-2009

1997: 

(requires minimum OS 9.2.2 & installation of USB card)

All PowerPC 603 & 604 based Apple clones by Motorola, Umax, Daystar, Tatung, Power Computing.

PowerBook 3400 
Power Macintosh 5500 
Power Macintosh 6500 
Power Macintosh 7300 
Power Macintosh 8600 
Power Macintosh 9600 
20th Anniversary Macintosh 
PowerBook 2400 
PowerBook G3 
Power Macintosh G3  

1998: 

(requires minimum OS 9.2.2 & installation of USB card)

Power Macintosh G3 All-In-One / PowerMac G3 Desktop or Tower (beige)
PowerBook G3 Series 
iMac PowerBook G3 Series (rev. 2) 

1999:  

(requires minimum OS 9.2.2)

iMac (Rev. C) 
Power Macintosh G3 (Blue & White) 
iMac (Rev. D) 
PowerBook G3 (Bronze Keyboard) aka Lombard
iBook aka clamshell iBook
Power Macintosh G4 (AGP Graphics) 
Power Macintosh G4 (PCI Graphics) 
iMac (Slot Loading) 
iMac DV/SE  

2000:

iBook SE 

PowerBook G3 (FireWire) aka Pismo
iMac (Summer 2000) 
iMac DV (Summer 2000) 
iMac DV+ iMac DV SE (Summer 2000) 
Power Macintosh G4 (Gigabit Ethernet) 
Power Macintosh G4 Cube 
iBook/iBook SE (FireWire)  

2001:

PowerBook G4 
Power Macintosh G4 (Digital Audio) 
iMac (Early 2001) 
iMac SE (Early 2001) 
iBook (Dual USB) aka white iBook 
iMac (Summer 2001) 
Power Macintosh G4 (Quicksilver)
iBook (Late 2001)
PowerBook G4 (Gigabit Ethernet)  

All processor speeds are incorporated by name.

2002:

iBook (14.1")
iMac G4 (Flat Panel) aka Daisy / Bubble iMac 
Power Macintosh G4 (Quicksilver 2002) 
eMac 
PowerBook G4 (DVI) 
iBook (Mid 2002) 
Xserve 
iMac G4 (17") 
Power Macintosh G4 (Mirrored Drive Doors) 
iBook (Late 2002) 
PowerBook G4 (1 GHz/867 MHz)  

2003:
PowerBook G4 (12.1") 
PowerBook G4 (17") 
Power Macintosh G4 (FireWire 800) 
iMac G4 (Early 2003) 
Xserve (Slot Load) 
iBook (Early 2003) 
eMac (ATI Graphics) 
Power Macintosh G5 
iMac G4 (USB 2.0) 
PowerBook G4 (12.1" DVI) 
PowerBook G4 (15" FireWire 800) 
PowerBook G4 (17" 1.33 GHz) 
iBook G4  

2004: 

Xserve G5 
eMac (USB 2.0) 
iBook G4 (Early 2004) 
PowerBook G4
Power Macintosh G5 (June 2004) 
iMac G5 (White)
iBook G4 (Late 2004) 
Mac mini (PowerPC)
PowerBook G4 (1.5 - 1.67 GHz) 

2005:
Power Macintosh G5 (Early 2005) 
eMac (2005) 
iMac G5 (Ambient Light Sensor) 
iBook G4 (Mid 2005) 
iMac G5 (iSight) 
PowerBook G4 (Dual Layer SD) 
Power Macintosh G5 (Late 2005)  

2006:

iMac (Early 2006) 
MacBook Pro (Intel)
Mac mini (Early 2006) 
MacBook Pro (17-inch) 
MacBook (Intel Core Duo)  (White & Black)
iMac (Mid 2006) (Intel Core Duo)
Mac Pro (Intel)
iMac (Late 2006) Intel 
Mac mini (Late 2006)  (Intel / Core Solo & CoreDuo Models)
MacBook Pro (Late 2006) 
MacBook (Late 2006)  (White & Black)
Xserve (Late 2006)  

2007:

MacBook (Mid 2007)  (White & Black)
MacBook Pro (Mid 2007) (Core2Duo)
iMac (Mid 2007) (Core2Duo) (Aluminum)
Mac mini (Mid 2007) 
MacBook (Late 2007)  (Core2Duo)

2008:

MacBook Air 
Mac Pro (Early 2008) 
Xserve (Early 2008) 
MacBook (Early 2008) (White & Black)
MacBook Pro (Early 2008) 
iMac (Early 2008) (Aluminum)
MacBook (13-inch, Aluminum, Late 2008) 
MacBook Air (Late 2008) 
MacBook Pro (15-inch, Late 2008)

2009:
MacBook Air
iMac
MacBook (White)
Mac Pro
MacBook Pro 15 inch (SD slot / unibody)
MacBook Pro 17 inch (SD slot / unibody)
Macbook Unibody (White plastic)
MacBook 13" Unibody
iMac with SD slot

Also compatible:

Any Hackintosh (desktop/laptop/netbook) with 10.4, 10.5, or 10.6 installed.

All computers (desktop, laptop, netbook) with Windows 98 w/USB, Windows 2000, Windows Millennium, Windows XP, Windows Vista, Windows 7

All Linux distributions since 2005

Playstation 2

Tivo DVRs

Nintendo Wii

I have other ethernet / network adapters that may work with other Apple Operating systems ... just email me.

* Mac model listing partially extracted from www.apple-history.com

Some Notes About My Competition

I've noticed a number of USB to Ethernet Adapters being listed on eBay by a seller in Hong Kong - listing them as compatible with Vista, Linux, Mac 10.X.

He's offering them under a number of seller IDs - but it's all the same guy - as verified through the "contact member" messaging system.

I'd like to clear up a few things about these adapters:

1) First and foremost these DO NOT WORK AS ADVERTISED. 

I purchased one. Here's the compatibility chart listed in a README on the included software disk and then verified:

This Document describes how to install MCS7830 USB Ethernet adapter Driver for MacOS X.

This driver is for Mac OS X 10.X and has been tested on the following Mac versions.

10.4.7  - MAC Mini
10.4.10 - MAC Mini
10.2.8 - Power MAC
10.3.5 - Power MAC
10.4.3 - Power MAC
10.4.9 - Power MAC

* What does the above compatibility list even mean? Does it work with 10.5? Will it work with 10.6? It won't work with OS9. Does it work with Intel Macs?

2) It is a mess trying to translate broken English and get any support with these adapters. I offer full email and even phone support for my adapters. I've been selling these adapters for 8 years and I stand behind them working 100% with ANY MAC 9.2.2 or higher.

3) These adapters are bulkier than they appear in the picture and there are no included instructions. These adapters also use the same chipset as Apple's adapters - I'll let you read my other blog entries below to see the caveats of buying USB to Ethernet adapters with this chipset.

4) This adapters drivers are unlicensed. You may be breaking copyright and licensing regulations if you use them. You most likely won't be prosecuted and I don't want this particular caveat to scare you - it's just something you should be aware of. If your driver ever becomes broken by an OS - say the new Mac OS X 10.6 Snow Leopard - I usually have a patch within a week to ten days. You will most likely NEVER get a patch from a seller in Hong Kong.

5) The seller is in Hong Kong - this means the FREE SHIPPING included will take 10 - 14 business days from payment to reach you. My FREE shipping is first class international and usually take 2-5 days US and 4-10 days international. Customs hold ups in your country and weather can sometimes extend those times - but that applies to Hong Kong sellers too.

6) Hong Kong sellers cannot obtain tracking or delivery confirmation. Once they've mailed an item, in their minds you've received it ... end of story. With patience, I always make sure my customers receive their adapters either by tracking in USA or tracing internationally. If a problem with delivery arises, I send another out immediately!

7) Be aware that sellers in Hong Kong sometimes advertise themselves falsely as Silicon Valley or California. Know that you are contributing to a customs fencing operation by buying knockoffs. Be aware of hidden shipping or customs charges:

From a  July 24, 2009 actual eBay listing:

Buy It Now: $7.49
Shipping: $24.70
Location: default, default, Silicon Valley
email address: y_shoping99@ymail.com.hk

Why would a seller in California have a Hong Kong email address? 

Here's a response (from y_shoping99) after asking about the driver for Mac OS X and about the packaging:

"Hi,



It is no need drivers and no original packaging
If you want original packaging please add Insurance: US $2.50



Thanks."
- y_shoping99

What does insurance have to do with original packaging? That's not covered in the $24.70 shipping and handling?

This adapter is listed as working with Mac OS X 10.X - there is no USB ethernet adapter that works with all operating systems that has no driver (except mine and it requires MY DRIVER)

Troubleshooting & Education for Macs With A Bad Ethernet Port / USB Ethernet Adapter

Usually you are having problems with your network / broadband connection after a lightening strike or power surge ... Let's follow up with that aspect first ...

* Is your cable modem or DSL modem still functional? Most Internet Service Providers (ISPs) will provide you a new modem at no additional charge - that being said you may want to consider the purchase of your own modem. Modems are available at retail and at second hand/thrift stores plus flea markets. Along these lines, make sure your router (if you have one) is functional as well.

* Is your cabling good? Check and replace all wires ... RF cable from wall - this cable looks like your TV "cable" cable. If you have a DSL modem - replace your RJ-11 phone cable with a new one (also called telephone cable) ... Replace the ethernet cable (also called RJ45 cable) going to your computer and to your router if you have one.

* Do some maintenance/updating ... Use a program called AppleJack (provided with my adapters) to repair permissions and repair your disk. This solves greater than 50% of the problems reported to me. Try updating to the latest version of the Mac OS. This is available in the Apple Menu or as a direct download from Apple which can be found at www.apple.com/downloads

* Settings ... make sure your Network Settings in System Preferences (found in the Apple Menu) are correct. Generally, this should be set to DHCP for automatic configuration. With my adapter something that looks like EN01 or EN1 should be selected. Your ISP or local PC/Mac FixIt shop should be willing to help you for free (within reason). Try your ISP first.

* Hit the computer three times on the left side near the power supply ... just kidding ... don't do that ... I was just making sure you were reading.

Networking Terms

Ethernet port: this port is boxy in shape and looks like a slightly larger telephone jack. It is also called a "network port" "broadband connection" "LAN port" or "RJ45 port"

Cable Modem / DSL modem: Your cable or DSL modem (most likely provided by your service provider) is the box that provides you internet access. Always make sure that your modem is not actually the problem.

Router: Some cable/DSL modems have built in routers, sometimes routers are a separate box. A router has multiple "ethernet ports" for connecting multiple computers. Always make sure that you are bypassing a router to check if the router is not the problem.

USB: The flat end (also called the "A" end) is the connection you will find on your Mac. This "flat end" plugs into a free USB port on your Mac

ISP: Means (Internet Service Provider) This is the company that provides you with internet service - such as AT&T, Verizon, Comcast, Charter, Hughes Net

DSL / PPOE: PPOE stands for Point To Point Protocol Over Ethernet - some DSL (if far away from service provider) and most satellite modems are configured with PPOE. Please realize that these settings need to be written down so you can configure your adapter to work with your ISP. If you need assistance with these settings ... typically your service provider can assist you via their customer service phone number.

DHCP/Cable Modem: DHCP stands for Dynamic Host Configuration Protocol - it is a type of network configuration used by devices (broadband modems, TIVO, Playstation, etc etc ) to obtain configuration information for operation in an internet network. This protocol reduces system administration workload, allowing devices to be added to the network with little or no manual intervention - hence the word dynamic.

Firewall: A firewall is a part of a computer or network with the purpose to block unauthorized inbound access while permitting outbound communication. It is also a device or set of devices configured to permit, deny, encrypt, decrypt or proxy all computer traffic between different networks (or domains) based upon a set of rules and other criteria. Typically a firewall is unnecessary on a Mac as other "rules and preferences" can be set within different programs like Safari, Mail, and even the Mac itself. If, as an average consumer you are worried about someone accessing your information - you should get a separate Mac for your financial or confidential matters - I would even recommend one of the original 1989 Mac SE/30 All In Ones. Firewalls can interfere greatly with just about all types of "network connections" - that is unless configured carefully by a knowledgeable network expert.

Caveats to "finding an adapter on your own"

Many (read as most) units available at retail and elsewhere like eBay are ONLY compatible with 10.4. & 10.5. and are software based. My adapter is a hardware bridge and compatible with every operating system 9.2.2 & higher. 

Adapters from SMC, Farallon, Belkin, Linksys, and 3COM (and others) use several different chipsets - some compatible, some partially compatible, and some incompatible with Macs.

Not all brands carry the same uniform chipset throughout their retail lifespan. A lot of sellers that CLAIM Mac compatibility haven't actually tested their adapters - they are just trusting the packaging. 

This is particularly true of SMC & Linksys adapters.

Two USB Ethernet adapters made by SMC have the 2208 model designation. One SMC model works with very limited out of the box support for Macs. It is labelled MODEL: SMC2208. If you can find one of these - you will find it is USB 1.1 and has outdated firmware which may cause some compatibility issues.

Another SMC model DOES NOT work out of the box and DOES NOT HAVE ANY support for Macs. It is also labelled MODEL: SMC2208. It is even listed as compatible on many "open source driver websites".

Another model is labelled MODEL: SMC2209 and looks like the first model 2208 mentioned. It too has no out of the box support for Macs and has a different chipset in it - identical to Apple's (which is based on the software interpolation AX8817X chipset). So if you managed to find this one at retail or on eBay - not only would you be paying MORE than Apple's adapter, but you will get the same caveats of software interpolation - plus you run the risk of Apple breaking the driver. 

In August 2009 - SMC released a 2nd revision of the 2209 - this model is thinner, but looks very similar to its predecessor. It has a flimsy pop up port that breaks easily.

* This adapter can still be found at retail in some areas for $39.99 - $49.99.

Some currently shipping SMC adapters also labelled 2209 carry a DAVICOM software interpolation chipset that as far as I am aware of - carries NO APPLE/MAC driver.

One SMC model; labeled 2102 USB/ETH is also completely incompatible with the Mac - with no known driver.

One SMC model; labeled 2106 USB/ETH is also completely incompatible with the Mac - with no known driver.

All SMC USB adapters are listed as compatible with Macs on many websites - the truth is - only if you can happen upon a compatible chipset. There are no physical differences and no box or date indications to show you what is what.

The adapter that I sell, and have been selling on eBay for 6 years now (about 5100 sold as of August 15, 2009) contains the ADMTek Pegasus chipset. I obtained a firmware loader from a friend who snagged it from a Linksys plant that closed in 2005. I use a slightly modified (and the most up to date) firmware on all the adapters I sell.

Many Hong Kong sellers here on eBay state Mac compatibility ... but aren't actually shipping their adapters with Mac drivers. Their adapters also ONLY work with 10.5 and will most likely be broken in 10.6 and higher.

Troubleshooting for Macs With A Bad Ethernet Port / USB Ethernet Adapter

1) Have you made sure that you installed the drivers from the CD I provided?

2) Have you made sure to restart your Mac?

3) Have you tried using the adapter without the USB extension I provided?

4) Have you tried a different ethernet cable? Is it the right cable?      (a crossover RJ45 ethernet cable)?

5) Have you used the updates on the CD I provide to fully update your Apple Operating System? Have you tried re-updating; even if you have the last update?

You should be updated to:

  9.2.2
10.1.5
10.2.8
10.3.9
10.4.11
10.5.8
10.6.1

(All as of October 25, 2009)

It's okay if you don't have the updates in some cases ... but just know that these are the systems my adapter is tested regularly against. If you need the updates and they  were not on your CD, mention it to me,and I'll send you the updates free of charge on CD.

6) Have you restarted and repaired permissions as instructed in the direction sheet included with your driver?

7) Have you tried using AppleJack on the CD provided? AppleJack requires careful reading of the instructions, but is an invaluable FREE tool. It essentially bypasses the need for a boot CD and allows repair of the hard drive.

8) If you are somehow missing the driver (or in the rare case the driver is corrupted on the CD I provide) - please email me and I can direct you to a place on the internet where you can download the driver.

9) Have you made 100% sure your modem is plugged in and turned on?

10) Have you made 100% sure that your modem is functioning properly? 

(Generally your ISP will replace your modem at NO CHARGE ... if they won't; telll them you would like to drop their service - that usually changes their mind quickly.)

11) Have you made sure that, if you are using a router, that your router is 100% functional?

12) Is your modem getting enough power? Sometimes, older power strips weaken over time - sometimes they are not providing full current to the devices hooked up to them. Even if your computer is operating fine, it may be drawing the majority of the power from your power strip ... make sure this isn't the case with your set up.

13) TIP: Don't update your operating system if you aren't experiencing regular problems. iTunes, Quicktime, and other operating system updates can break the ethernet driver I provide ... not permanently ... but it may take a week or two for me to issue a patch. If your adapter stops working ... email me ... we'll find a solution together.

Why you should consider the move back to wired internet vs wireless

I sell a USB to Ethernet Adapter ... so this advice may not seem impartial. I'll try not to make this into a blog-o-mercial for my own benefit.

The biggest reason I would suggest using a wired connection vs a wireless one is: 

SECURITY

Recently, one of my good friends, who had WEP encryption on his wireless router, noticed a big difference in bandwidth. 

The lights on his cable modem and wireless router were going crazy - but his computers were turned off.

Because he had a high end wireless router from Linksys he could monitor the traffic incoming and outgoing.

He noticed that porn sites were being accessed, that LimeWire downloads were being made, and that banking sites he didn't visit were being accessed.

How could this be? He is a 25 year networking veteran. He configured the router with encryption and a good password. He also had the SSID (name of the router) hidden. In most scenarios this is enough to get rid of your average "piggybacker".

So, he and I went around the immediate area of his residence to see who might be "piggybacking" on his network. 

* Some say the term "piggybacking" is parsing words with "thief"

We found that two of the neighbors had NO CABLE, NO SATELLITE, NO DSL, NO PHONE LINE going to their residences, but they did have WiFi signals emitting from their houses and a little spying showed us that they had pretty normal cell phones (so no tethering). With a little investigation - I also found out that those neighbors also had no 3G modems in their residences. By further research ... we found that traffic only crossed his wireless router when two specific neighbors were at home.

So, do we confront the neighbors? What would we do if we were the average joe and not know who was "piggybacking"? Simple, just move to wired connection and the problem is solved. No one can steal a wired connection ... unless they break into your residence.

He was asked a few days later by this neighbor if his cable modem was having trouble. That's odd - if my neighbor had a cable a modem - I would think nothing of the question and answer the question. But this question was coming from a neighbor that didn't even have cable,DSL, or 3G modem access going to their residence.

So, if your ethernet port is blown on your motherboard and you are considering just going wireless to solve the problem ... consider the scenario above.

I use the local library branch often to go get some peace and quiet and to sometimes get a faster internet connection. Recently, when I went to the library I launched iTunes. I noticed two PCs and one Mac that had sharing turned on. I don't think the people knew that they were sharing their music over a wireless open internet connection ... I managed to get 40 songs of these computers using a program called Audio Hijack. It was interesting to see one of the library patrons go to the front desk and tell the them her internet connection was slow. So, I closed iTunes ... she went back to the desk and said the issue had resolved.

Why would I use a wired connection in conjunction with a USB to Ethernet Adapter ... even if my ethernet port is fine?

CONVENIENCE

I personally use this adapter on my black MacBook so I don't have to plug in my ethernet cable ... I just use a USB hub w/ two of these adapters so one can be hooked to the internet and one cable can be hooked to a network printer. I don't have to worry about IP addresses or the constant plugging & unplugging ruining my laptop's broadband connection port. The USB also stands an intermediary for surges from the network as well.

I also don't have to have a router - I can just use my USB hub as an ethernet router. I can use up to 16 USB to Ethernet adapters.

SPEED

Even if you are using the fastest wireless standard ... wired ethernet will always be faster.

Wireless interference is a big part of the speed issues ... cellphones, poor electrical wiring, bluetooth, microwaves, wireless audio, even satellite TV remotes can interfere with the signal strength and bandwidth of wireless ... but to be fair 802.11n has remedied this to a large degree. Still ... most wireless networks are 802.11b or 802.11g.

Also ... your distance from the router and any obstructions (walls, etc etc) can affect bandwidth. Why sacrifice speed if you don't have to?

If you are using a laptop ... use wireless on the road or at coffee shops.

BATTERY LIFE

Wireless access comes at a cost ... power.

By using an ethernet / wired connection you can save 15% or more on battery life if you have a laptop. Just make sure that if you are going to use a wired connection that your cable is long enough. Never plug into your laptop with a short ethernet cable - you could do damage to your port.

This is another advantage of my adapter - it will pull out easily if "yanked" as most RJ45 cables lock into place in their ports.

Here is the text of my eBay auctions ... with the information above and the information below ... see if this might be a good solution for you:

Save a costly motherboard repair for your Apple: All In One iMac, eMac, Mac Mini, iBook, PowerMac, G4 Cube, Powerbook (w/ USB ports), MacBook, MacBook Air, MacBook Pro, Mac Pro, or G3 G4 G5 Tower or Twentieth Anniversary Mac (requires installation of PCI USB Card * not included)

I personally use this adapter on my MacBook so I don't have to plug in my ethernet cable ... I just use a USB hub w/ two of these adapters so one can be hooked to the internet and one cable can be hooked to a network printer. I don't have to worry about IP addresses or the constant plugging & unplugging ruining my laptop's broadband connection port. The USB also stands an intermediary for surges from the network as well.

This adapter works with ALL Apple operating systems (Apple's adapter only works with 10.5.2 & higher & is meant exclusively for use w/ the MacBook Air)

It can be used to replace your surged ethernet/broadband port on your Apple computer that you use for network, cable modem, DSL modem, satellite modem, internet access. Your ethernet port does not have to be bad to use this adapter. Get this in case of an emergency!

USB 2.0 & USB 1.1 standards compatible. One end is a standard RJ45 Ethernet/Network port. The other end is a standard flat end USB connection. You will plug your ethernet cable into this adapter JUST AS YOU WOULD your built in port.

Comes complete with drivers, manual, and instructions that I have worked hard over several years of sales to make as complete & comprehensive as possible.

This adapter works on Apple Operating Systems 9.2.2, 10.1, 10.2 (Jaguar) Mac OS 10.3 (Panther) or Mac OS 10.4 (Tiger) Mac OS 10.5 (Leopard) 10.6 (Snow Leopard) & all versions of Windows that support USB. Apple's adapter doesn't work in OS 9 or anything lower than 10.5.

This is NOT Apple's adapter - it's better. Apple's adapter is software based and may have some compatibility problems even with the MacBook Air. Apple's adapter is designed exclusively for the MacBook Air.

Best compatibility with Jaguar (10.2.8), Panther (10.3.9), Tiger (10.4.11), Leopard (10.5.8), Snow Leopard (10.6.1), & Windows 2000, Windows Millenium, & Windows XP Windows VISTA.

There is no need to open up the computer to install this. It is not complicated and even the most novice person can do it. I'm happy to provide phone & email support to you to make this work.

Just a note:

If you do not see one of my adapters listed ... one will be listed as soon as I see that an auction has ended.

About the CD provided:

- Contact me if your disk doesn't work.

- You must reboot after installing the drivers. It's best to run your disk first aid & to use "Repair Permissions" - located at: Hard Drive/Applications/Utilities/Disk Utility - highlight your hard drive - click repair permissions.

* Some installations may require an updated operating system. Some updates are provide for you on the CD. * - You can also use this adapter as a print server or a great way to save a port - I use it so I don't have to plug in my ethernet to my MacBook each time. I have the adapter connected to a USB hub. Adapter also works w/ Windows, Playstation 2, & TIVO. - YOUR ETHERNET CABLE OR MODEM MAY ALSO BE BAD!!! Please eliminate this problem from my support equation. - Your modem MAY have a firewall - if this is the case, it must be disabled or you can use a cable DSL router between your modem and this adapter to circumvent some firewalls. Hardware firewalls are almost useless w/ Macs - If you have DSL or Satellite and are using PPOE (instead of DHCP) - you must call your ISP to help you reconfigure your settings - PLEASE KNOW that while this adapter works 99% of the time you may have OTHER damage to your Mac. - Installation on Mac OSX 10.5 (Leopard) requires an update to 10.5.2/ 10.5.3 - if you are not able to obtain this update or would like for me to send it to you on CD for FREE ... please let me know. This update is too big to place on every CD and 10.5 is still in release and being updated. For Mac OS X (Panther, Tiger, Leopard): Plug in adapter Install appropriate drivers labeled USB Pegasus (Install for Panther 10.3 Tiger 10.4 Leopard 10.5 - Tiger & Leopard Installer ARE THE SAME) Restart Repair Permissions Go to Apple Menu/System Preferences/Network (gray ball) "New Port Detected" window appears (something similar to EN 01) Click "OK" Click on Configure Configure TCPIP appropriately (most cable/DSL modems are DHCP) (NO other fields need to be configured) Click "Apply Now" MAC OS 9.2.2 Install Appropriate Driver Restart Return to TCP/IP (Select "Ethernet Adapter") Select DHCP I am the ONLY SUPPORT FOR THIS ADAPTER ... DO NOT CALL OR EMAIL ANY OTHER COMPANY ... THIS ADAPTER IS SPECIALLY ADAPTED BY ME FOR THE PURPOSE ADVERTISED. Contact me for any problems/bulk/discount/education orders